Wine find: 2008 Layer Cake Malbec — baltimoresun.com

Wine find: 2008 Layer Cake Malbec — baltimoresun.com

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Pull the Cork Out: Layer Cake Malbec

Thanks to Pull the Cork Out

This is a piece of cake that you will want some more of. The concept behind Layer Cake which represents the different layers of wine and the image of a handcrafted product. Winemaker Jayson Woodbridge named Layer Cake as his grandfather told him that the soils in which the vines lived were a layer cake. If properly made, the wine from these vines was like a delicious cake. Malbec was one of the original 6 grapes of Bordeaux, which is now the premier red grape of Argentina. This grape thrives in the warm climate of Argentina. The fruit for Layer Cake Malbec comes from a vineyard that is flanking the Mendoza River in Argentina; a rocky terrain. All of the fruit is harvested, destemmed and sorted by hand.

This wine is 100% Malbec. Dark and dense color. Aromas are black fruit, anise and chocolate undertones. Flavors are blackberry, plum, berries, currants and cassis and white pepper spice. This is an intense mouthful of fruit-driven wine with soft tannins on the finish. 80% stainless steel fermented; 20% in used Hundred Acre barrels. 13.9% alcohol by volume. Be sure to leave room for seconds. Pull the cork out on this.

Layer Cake Malbec Rating: Four Glasses

I (Joy of the Table’s Tonya) am very excited about the wine I am drinking tonight! I had not intended to blog a tasting note this evening. I mean, after all, I am glued to the TV and completely opposed to anything that would distract me from this Sunday night battle between my Eagles and the stinking Cowboys.

Thanks to Tonya from Joy of the Table

But this grown up tailgate consisting of spicy tilapia tacos with black bean and roasted corn salsa paired with the perfect Malbec (2007 Layer Cake Malbec) — introduced by my dear friend and partner in Wine Crimes the “Wine Newbie” — drove me to fire up the laptop and let my fingers do the talking between delectable sips.

2007 Layer Cake Malbec 4 JOTT Glasses!

A JoyofTheTable.com Favorite!

The fruit for this supple, intense wine that explodes with notes of blackberry, cinnamon, a little chocolate, spice and everything nice! I was pleasantly surprised when the Newbie bragged about her latest purchase. I was doubtful because … well, she’s the Newbie reviewer here at JOTT.com so Dandelion Wine suits her just fine.

But I was more than pleasantly surprised. And you will be too. Especially if you find this wine on sale at your local wine and spirits shop. It seems to retail for about $19.99 but we found it for $9.99 because it was a “Chairman’s Selection” at the PA Wine & Spirits stores.

Have you tried the Layer Cake Malbec? If so, let me know!

I’m off to pump this one and enjoy it again tomorrow.

Ciao for now,

Tonya

Jayson Woodbridge: Leading the 'Charge'

I have to laugh; I was talking to my client Jayson Woodbridge about his projects yesterday and his desire to push the envelope open on the viral approach to his wine brand Layer Cake. So as any one of us would do in the digital media business, I ran a Google search on Jayson Woodbridge and found tons of information. One of the first listings I found was the Wine Spectator article describing how Hundred Acre was embattled in a lawsuit filed by some locals who are trying to hold ‘a brother down’.

It’s remarkable how it was phrased and doesn’t deserve a hyperlink nor reference because it was word-smithing at it’s finest to gain uniques and traffic to a site that needs to sell advertising. Many of you know who he is, because he’s tough to miss. Yes, he’s a big boy, a winemaker, a NO HOLDS barred juggernaut type of person who has made not only some of the finest wines of culture and drinkability through his Layer Cake brand. Yet moreover has absolutely dominated the Napa Valley Cabernet and Barossa Shiraz market with his Cult Wines, Hundred Acre.

I also found it ironic that WAY down at the bottom of my Google search references to charges dropped that were in relation to permit violations and noise ordinances. It wasn’t for speeding, for walking on the grass and absolutely not for murder. It was for permit violations, I’ll say it again, ‘permit violations’. Hundreds of man hours, cash and wasted time all to result in Jayson donating back to his community $100,000 while he’s already creating tax revenue and buzz for the Napa Valley wine industry that currently needs a face lift in attitude in my humble editorial opinion.

From October 7, 2008, CNN Money Online

Jayson Woodbridge) “He’s been disciplined by the planning commission for not having an occupancy permit (Woodbridge settled the dispute by donating $100,000 to charity), and has faced complaints from neighbors and even a criminal charge (it was later dropped) for making wine without a license. But he’s a critical darling – and proof that more than one personality type can succeed here.”

There’s so much we can learn from our own understanding of the access the consumer has to information through search engines like Google. There’s so much that we as an industry can do to bring the consumer into our world through digital platforms and understanding of the internet. Jayson is really one of the first to know it’s impact and employ his options to take his brands to the next level. It’s the only way for him and I do give him an immense amount of credit for mustering up the cajones and admitting we’ve all go to accept the digital tools that are here to stay and the wine market is somewhat archaic in comparison to every other industry on the planet.

Shameless Plug:

I met Jayson (Woodbridge) nearly a decade ago outside of the once St. Helena hot spot Tra Vigne. Even then as a newcomer from Canada his presence was felt from everyone in the room and the immense patio filled with the St. Helena wine establishment. There was something about him that you couldn’t miss even casually. Maybe it’s his size, maybe it’s his aura or maybe it’s that look on his face like he’s willing to compete at any moment with anyone for the top rung of the industry. I have to say since I’ve been in the wine business, there’s not been one star that has risen faster.

There’s not been one guy who’s put his not so proverbial balls on the line to make what he’s passionate about which is really good wine. And yes, from my estimation, he’s not competing with you, Bobby Parker or anyone who critiques wine from an armchair hidden behind a bow tie and some lofty impression of themselves. He’s competing against himself, because in his mind, much like Reese Bobby, Ricky Bobby’s daddy, Jayson knows “if you aren’t first, you are last” Since 2000, Hundred Acre wines have taken top scores from every wine critic in the land. From my estimation, it’s much deserved place for a guy who risked it all to act upon what his circadian rhythm alone told him to do: “cut no corners and make the finest wine possible, from every corner of the planet need be”

I have had the luxury, pleasure and honor of tasting Hundred Acre “Kayli Morgan” Napa Valley Cabernet on many occasions over the last ten years. To many it would be an esteemed experience alone. However, to speak to the man behind the curtain, the one experience that stands out in my mind was the first time I ever tried the wine with Mr. Woodbridge in 2002.

He opened his cellar door and said, “go in and get any two bottles of wine you want so we can try them with my first vintage of Hundred Acre. The only caveat; it has to be Bordeaux varietal based, outside of that, regardless of expense, I want your opinion.” I was urged to pick appropriate world class wines, given free reign with very little fear from the vintner of the unreleased Hundred Acre. So I chose carefully, but realize, he had every great wine in the world to chose from…I got sweaty considering the options.

Not wanting to cherry pick or over extend my welcome I emerged from the cellar with two bottles that were well recognized about $100 a bottle a piece. I was chided immediately and laughed at by Jays, he goes, “go back in and get some real wine; you are my guest and I want you to try the best in the world against Hundred Acre” I shuddered to think I had Carte Blanche with his cellar, but, I did what I was told and emerged with two of the finest wines in the world.

The lineup was the 1990 Le Pin from Pomerol and the 1997 Harlan Napa Valley Cabernet; without checking references I believe they were both rated 100 points by Parker. Jayson pulled the corks and decanted each wine like he was opening beers at a bachelor party. He didn’t care one bit about what he was going against; he wanted an honest opinion from people who barely knew him at the time, but, moreover trained palates.

Each wine was stunning, without hesitation. Each wine had it’s values that you could see would offer a 100 point experience to someone. That notwithstanding, the Le Pin was 30 years too young, but may have been one of the greatest opportunities to try what ‘will be’ a world recognized legendary wine forever. The Harlan was ripe, abundant, classic 1997 vintage, but, I got to tell you, I wouldn’t have closed my eyes and thought 100 points. I am not enamored with expensive wines not having shelf life and at this point the secondary market was getting $800-$1200 a bottle for a wine that had five years left in it.

Then the 2000 Hundred Acre was tried. The wine was so polished and palate encompassing that it made my mind swirl; yes, I had tried these other two wines prior, but, the thought that $125 was going to get me a 95-100 point experience was what I thought about. The price to value ratio worked. Moreover, the idea that Jayson would expose himself to potential criticism over his new creation made me respect him even more.

He said, “SteveO, it’s what it takes to make this type of wine. I will never compromise, spare expense or stop making what I believe to be one of the best wines Napa Valley will ever see.” To date Jayson Woodbridge has continued to develop critical acclaim while never compromising his creative integrity. His results are proven year over year by anyone and everyone that is in the business of evaluating wines. His mailing list is closed to newcomers and to be honest, the opportunity to taste something that has taken so much dedication should be hard to obtain. Hundred Acre wines are a once in a lifetime experience and one that I will never forget.

A lofty goal: Exquisite, affordable wine

Jayson Woodbridge in the vineyard with Commander Roo

By VIRGINIE BOONE
FOR THE PRESS DEMOCRAT

Jayson Woodbridge is not a man who takes shortcuts. It’s what has made him very successful at producing a much-sought-after, super-high-end Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon under the whimsical name Hundred Acre, which sells easily for $250 and up a bottle.

“When you look at the genesis of something, you could make a hundred little shortcuts that would save you time or money or whatever,” he said. “All those little shortcuts turn into a mountain of shortcuts and will kill you. You’re never going to reach the absolute peak you could hit.”

At the high end of winemaking, he’s not alone in his zeal. But he’s one of a very few with this climb-Everest-or-die-trying mindset who are also making wines for $15.

“It’s got the perfect name, the image it conjures up is automatically attractive,” said Martin Reyes, wine buyer at St. Helena Wine Center. “It sounds delicious and sure lives up to it, always full and luscious wines, you get a lot of bang for the buck.”

His inspiration is personal. A few years ago, Woodbridge, who didn’t grow up with money, felt that with Hundred Acre he was betraying the memory of his humble Sicilian grandparents, who made wine at home as well as pizzas and cakes by hand. So he came up with another line of wines, Layer Cake, made as precisely as Hundred Acre but for a much more reasonable price.

“I realized my grandfather never could have afforded a bottle of Hundred Acre,” Woodbridge said. “It would have been out of his reach … that I had never made a wine that the everyday man could buy and enjoy with his family, that didn’t break the bank.”

He started tasting hundreds of wines in the $15-$20 range, finding himself ultimately unimpressed. The offerings were dominated by huge corporate wineries with large overheads and little imagination. With his lean, mean team and maniacal approach to pursuing perfection, Woodbridge figured he could do better.

So he began to search out fruit sources in some of his favorite wine regions of the world, places he felt he could get great fruit at reasonable prices. He would still rely on high-end winemaking techniques, employing the same people who make Hundred Acre to make each and every Layer Cake wine.

He then sat down and designed a simple black-and-white label to evoke the lovingly prepared cakes he recalled his grandmother making for him as a boy — the ultimate symbol in his mind of something handmade with love. He placed the details of his grandfather’s homespun, home-winemaking teachings on the back.

“My grandfather said to me the vines live in the ground and the ground has layers in it like grandma’s cake,” he explained. “It goes down into those layers and pulls the chocolate and mocha and blackberry jam and strawberries and all these flavors out of the ground, and he explained the taste and smell of it was layered, too.”

The core Layer Cake wines include a shiraz from South Australia, an old-vine primitivo from Puglia, Italy, and a malbec from Mendoza, with a Cotes du Rhone syrah added in 2007 along with a Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. Woodbridge and his team of winemakers, including Helen Mawson and Hundred Acre consultant Philippe Melka, see the choices as a type of passport, a way for people to explore and taste from some of their favorite wine-growing areas.

“There’s never been one label made by the same team flying around the world and doing this,” Woodbridge added. “My personal mission is to make something really affordable and really stunning and show the wine world this is what can be done at this price point.”

He explains the key, in addition to low overhead, is that he takes a lower profit on the wines, taking that money to buy better fruit and induce the farmers with whom he works to let him pick when he wants to pick. He also thinks he’s better attuned to know what an American wine drinker will like in an Australian shiraz, Argentine malbec or Italian primitivo, a varietal genetically identical to what we know in California as zinfandel.

The project requires at minimum four harvests a year, a pace Woodbridge welcomes as a chance to absorb a constant flow of information. He likens it to having the chance to live four times the average life span. The wines are made, bottled and labeled in their country of origin and then shipped to the United States, where they land in specialty retail shops or high-end grocery stores. At this point, the demand far outweighs what Woodbridge and his team can supply.

Despite Layer Cake’s runaway success, as with Hundred Acre, if Woodbridge isn’t happy with the end results in any given year, he simply won’t make the wine. It happened in 2007 with the Australian shiraz; a 2008 vintage is out now. The quality, he says, just wasn’t up to his standards.

Woodbridge looks at it instead as a chance for people to try his other wines, the dark and brooding malbec grown at 4,500 feet elevation in the Andes mountains, or the inky, spicy old-vine primitivo from Puglia. Or even a Napa Valley cabernet, made in a fashion similar to the way Hundred Acre is made and aged in the same French oak barrels used to age the pricier wine.

Never one to pass up an interesting opportunity, Woodbridge has just finished bottling a 2007 pinot noir sourced in part from Carneros’ stately Stanly Ranch that will go by the label name “Cherry Pie.” His grandmother made those, too.

Food Pairing: Layer Cake Shiraz by Tip of the Fork

Thanks to Donald Bond, Tip of the Fork blogger for this food pairing/appraisal of Layer Cake Shiraz. We always appreciate hearing every opinion and particularly enjoyed Donald’s blog.

Everyone has their favorite type of wine, whether it’s chardonnay, merlot or a nice cabernet. Shiraz is one that I have not really added to my favorite’s list yet, but I’m trying them as they come along.

Today I decided to open up a Southern Australian Shiraz from Layer Cake. This particular Shiraz comes on strong, from the aroma escaping the bottle to the overly bold flavors of black plum, mocha, chocolate, black pepper and blackberry.

What I first noticed about this particular Shiraz is the bold dark red color. Honestly, didn’t think Shiraz wines were this dark, but I’ll explain why this particular one is such a color. The Layer Cake Shiraz is 100% Shiraz, settles in only French Oak and for me a bit high in alcohol content at 14.9%. Yeah, I’m a light weight, but doesn’t keep me from enjoying a nice glass of wine…or two!

After opening this Shiraz, you will be greeted with an aroma of mocha, chocolate and a hint of black pepper. I felt the chocolate aromas overpowered the plum. The plum was more of a distant scent. From the first few sips of this Layer Cake Shiraz, the black plum greets you with a bold burst, then followed by the mocha and finishing off with the flavor of a dark chocolate and spices. The blends of mocha and chocolate will linger with you from sip to sip.

To be honest, it caught me by surprise, as I wasn’t expecting it to be so bold. I didn’t pair this one very well, as we had prepared healthy homemade pizza’s (you’ll read the review shortly). I wanted to try the Shiraz regardless…well because I was in the mood to try something different!

I suggest pairing this particularly bold Shiraz with a nice seasoned and grilled pork tenderloin or steak. The red meat will tame this Shiraz and compliment your meal quite nicely.

This one will set you back about $20 bucks. The world is filled with Shiraz, so I’ll continue to look for the one this will knock my socks off.

Layer Cake at Fleet Week: SF Sentinel

Blue Angels at Fleet Week in San Francisco

Saturday could not have looked better for San Francisco’s Annual Fleet Week. Or so it seemed. At 11:30, atop the parking garage at Pier 39 for the “V.I.P. Party, 2009”, the skies above were bright and clear, and any remnants of fog were very far away. The autumn chill and mild breezes were hardly noticeable – especially with a fast-moving blimp overhead doing a surprising number of nimble turns. For most of us, the incredible spread of savory foods, tempting sweets, luscious wines and spirits distracted attention away from the weather. The opening airshow began right on time – including the daredevil stunts by my new friend, Tim Weber. Thousands were gathered across the way at Pier 39. The seals looked like they were three-deep, waiting for whatever seals wait for. And San Francisco Bay hosted an amazing traffic of sailboats, yachts, passenger and cargo ships. Shortly after 3:00, the scouting plane, “Fat Albert”, flew over the spectators – a sure sign that the Blue Angels were on their way. By 3:45, after several maneuvers, word went out that the show was over. By then, the wind was up and the fog was falling like a final curtain. Oh, well, back to the party….

Layer Cake

John Hardesty, One True Vine, Hundred Acre ...man with a plan

Jayson Woodbridge’s grandfather always used to say, “Never pass up a good layer cake,” and Jayson, renowned winemaker of the Layer Cake wine brand, and Lori Karmel of We Take the Cake, crafters of stunning, gourmet cakes from South Florida, are taking that advice to heart. Jayson was so impressed with the Prize-Winning Chocolate Layer Cake lovingly baked and designed by We Take the Cake, as was Lori with his award-winning Layer Cake Wines, that the two decided to partner in a promotion together. It’s a Perfect Pairing, as both the cakes and the wines are hand-crafted, made with old-fashioned family values, using only the very best ingredients.

Food Pairing: Layer Cake Shiraz

I have been following the buzz on El Bizcocho restaurant and its “molecular gastronomy” concept for some time now. Since my curiosity just wouldn’t let up, I decided to check myself into The Rancho Bernardo Inn.

For starters, I must say that the hotel and its grounds are picture-perfect, resembling an Italian resort, complete with several water fountains (imported from Italy and Mexico), cypress and olive trees, fabulous spa, and 3 swimming pools.

As my husband and I were lead to our premium suite with a view of the golf course, we felt as if we were miles from San Diego, and couldn’t believe we had never visited before.

Executive Chef Judd Canepari

When we entered the El Bizcocho dining room, waiters dressed in black suits seemed eager to cater to our every whim. We ordered a glass of champagne and decided to leave the menu up to Executive Chef/Chef de Cuisine Judd Canepari.

As the Food Editor of Ranch and Coast Magazine, I met Canepari a few years ago when he was the executive chef of Rancho Valencia restaurant in Rancho Santa Fe. I was extremely impressed with his high-energy spirit, unique cooking talents, strong devotion to his craft, class, style, and an Oscar winning smile. When we met again to talk about El Bizcocho, his fun spirit was in tact, and he continues to be at the top of his game in the kitchen.

The menu at the El Bizcocho restaurant has gone through a delicious and educational transformation. Once offering a tasting only menu, driven by heavy molecular gastronomy, Canepari received resounding dissatisfaction from the San Diego eater. “Molecular gastronomy is present in our everyday cooking life,” he says. “The science has been around for hundreds of years, and it was the marketing genius of Farran Andria that made us believe we were charting new territory. He was the first to bring it to the fine dining arena”.

Early in his career, Canepari had long been using Transglutaminase (food glue), and it appeared he was among one of the first chefs in San Diego to have liquid nitrogen and a thermal circulator in his kitchen. At present, Canepari uses Calcium Gluconolactate in his cheese-making process and Xanthium and Guar gum (used in the making of ice cream for 20 years or more). “We are making food by the hand and believe in a refined structured cuisine, with balance, texture and taste,” he explained.

I believe Canepari has the strongest molecular gastronomy kitchen in San Diego. Actively working on, and experimenting with new ideas textures and techniques, he has a close relationship with CP Kelco, the leader in hydrocolloid research. He does not wish to be defined by molecular gastronomy, but it is a tool that he will continue to use to challenge San Diego to move forward into the new food frontier.

“This is one of the strongest culinary teams I have ever worked with, and it is the strength of these young chefs that inspires me to be as creative as I can be,” says Canepari. “I believe it’s my responsibility to build the next generation of great chefs for San Diego. Food is our imagination, taste is our eyes, smell is our memory and texture is our touch.”

The menu is collaboration by Canepari, Alaun Girmaud (executive sous chef) and William Geiger (sous chef). Some of the ingredients are organic but Canepari wonders: “if you didn’t grow it yourself, then is it really organic?”
Chicken Liver Parfait

When my ‘captain’ for the evening brought me the chicken liver parfait, I wasn’t sure if I would like it. Served with peppered red wine jelly, icicle radish and spiced brioche, I must say that it was so delicious, I felt as though I was eating a luscious dessert. The parfait was both silky and creamy and all the ingredients combined were a magical blend of flavors. Pair with Domaine De Monteils Sauternes, 2005, France.

Canepari uses sustainable Lamb from Elysian Fields Farms, Rabbit from Devils Gulch Ranch, and farm raised/sustainable seafood from the central coast. Don’t miss the tender and slow cooked lamb loin shank with fried semolina, black olive sponge, and zucchini puree; pair with Layer Cake Shiraz, 2008, Australia. Another original creation is the seared diver scallop with rabbit loin, smoked trout roe, compressed fennel and maple sugar. Somehow Canepari managed to make the rabbit loin look exactly like a scallop. The only way I could tell the difference was by tasting it: truly amazing! Pair with Angeline Pinot Noir, 2008, Sonoma.

Being of Italian decent himself, Canepari knew the Italian in me needed homemade pasta. When he delivered the fonduta pyramid raviolis with imported Italian Fontina cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano and Black truffle shavings, I was in heaven and urged him to add more Italian inspired dishes to the menu (he told me he also makes a great pasta sauce).

Canepari says he will never tire or give up on being the best chef he can be. “San Diego has talent in the culinary arena, they just have to wake up and see it,” he says. “No crab stacks and deconstructed Caesar salads; just honest, made from the heart cuisine.”

If you want to experience the best of the best, visit the Rancho Bernardo Inn and dine at El Bizcocho today.

Maria Desiderata Montana is an award-winning food and wine journalist, editor, and published author based in San Diego. She gained an appreciation of European cuisine from her parents, who were born and raised in Calabria, Italy. Visit her website at www.sandiegofoodfinds.com.

The Nashville Scene: Wine Wednesday

In a nice piece of kismet, this past weekend I had the opportunity to enjoy two very different wines who both happened to have the word “cake” in their name. As a oenophile who doesn’t necessarily have a photographic memory for labels and winery names, I’ll take my mnemonic devices where I can find them.

​First over the lips was a bottle of 2007 Layer Cake Primitivo. If you think you’re not familiar with the Primitivo varietal, give yourself some credit. It’s just the Italian name for the grape that originated in Greece and was imported centuries ago into the boot heel of Italy. We call it maize. Oops, I meant we call it zinfandel.

The worst segment of California took the zinfandel grape and bastardized it into that sweet pink training wheels wine of the late ’80′s, Sutter Home white zin. But other more enlightened Californians have developed some really spectacular spicy, peppery wines that go great with traditional American fare of steaks, burgers and bbq.

Layer Cake is imported by Vintage Point with the motivation of adding some original Old World sensibilities to the current Californian zin offerings. Jayson Woodbridge, the vintner of this offering describes his intent thusly: “My old grandfather told me the soils in which the vines lived were a layer cake. If properly made, the wine from these vines was like a delicious cake layered with fruit, mocha and chocolate, with hints of spice and spice–and rich, always rich.’Never pass up a good Layer Cake,’ he would say. I have always loved those words.”

​

The result of his enterprise is definitely worth the effort. California zins can tend to be real fruit bombs, jammy and redolent of Bing cherries. Not that there’s anything wrong with that necessarily, as there are plenty of bottles of old vine zins in my meager wine locker. But Layer Cake aims for a slightly different aroma and taste profile. It is certainly fruit forward, and cherry is one of the noticeable flavors on the nose. However the undertones of cocoa and peppery spice are delightfully complex for a $16.99 bottle of wine.

Layer Cake paired wonderfully with the oregano and garlic salt rubbed grilled ribeye we paired it with, but it would also hang in there with an abuelito brownie if the bottle had lasted until dessert. (Un)fortunately, we couldn’t wait that long at our dinner table. One caveat would have to be that with its intensely dark purple color from the long exposure of the grape skins to the fermenting process, Layer Cake might not be a good choice for your everyday wine unless you have a frequent flyer plan with your local strip mall teeth whitening kiosk.

Jayson Woodbridge, winemaker, Layer Cake Primitivo aka Zinfandel

Blogroll: The Grotto, Jacksonville, Florida

I’ve been in and out of this wine bar and retailer (the Grotto) in Jacksonville many times over the last decade. Although, if you were playing a word association game, wine would not typically be the first thing you say when someone says Jacksonville, these guys are doing it RIGHT. It’s a very classy tasting environment with a strong world selection of wines (including Layer Cake).

Please check out what they had to share about our Layer Cake Shiraz here

Thanks guys for the support, it’s always appreciated!